A Brief Guide to Matera and the Sassi in Basilicata, South Italy
The area around Matera has been a centre of human habitation since Palaeolithic times. The city itself dates back to the third century BC when it was founded by the Romans and known as Metheola.
Since then Matera has belonged variously to the Lombards, Saracens, Byzantines, Germans, Normans, Spanish – when it came into Aragonese possession – then in the 17th century to the Italian aristocratic Orsini family. It briefly became capital of Basilicata and in 1927 became the provincial capital.
The Sassi di Matera
One of the reasons Matera is so well-known is because of its ‘sassi’ – literally meaning stones. These are ancient troglodyte dwellings carved into the tufo rock on one slope of the ‘Gravina’ ravine. This was the perfect place for prehistoric man to live; the rock was easily carved, it was in a good protected position and there were also existing grottoes. They simply enlarged some of these and dug pools, cisterns and canals into the sides of the ravine for water.
Over time, this group of grotto dwellings developed into a town, all its houses, churches and roads painstakingly carved out of the mountain. It prospered in medieval times largely because of its protected position and the fact there was a built in irrigation system making the most of any rainfall. But gradually the town became overpopulated and this in turn led to health problems as these windowless ‘houses’ had no drainage or sewerage systems. This situation continued right into the twentieth century and it was only in the 1950s (shamed into action by Carlo Levi’s book Christ Stopped at Eboli highlighting the terrible slum-like conditions) that the Italian government re housed the 20,000 sassi inhabitants. They were entitled to exchange their troglodyte home for a new house, although some wealthier inhabitants paid to keep their old home as well as the new one.
After being uninhabited for many years, the sassi are now being restored and turned into amazing hotels, restaurants and private homes. Believe it or not there are 150 churches carved into the rock and these too are undergoing restoration. This is thanks to the area’s recent designation as a UNESCO World Heritage Site as well as grants from the Italian government and the EU.
Growth Area
Tourists are now flocking to the area to enjoy the beauty of Matera and its unique sassi. after all there are not many places that offer you the chance to dine in a 9000 year old restaurant! But it’s not only tourism that has brought Matera to the public eye. Hollywood too has taken an interest, realising how similar the area is to places in and around Jerusalem. Actor and director Mel Gibson was so smitten that he chose Matera as the location for scenes in his epic film The Passion of the Christ in 2004. Add to that Matera’s enviable position close to the beach, the airport and a few kilometres from Puglia and you can see why its popularity is soaring.
Places of Interest
Matera has a huge number of churches and monasteries, including many in the sassi, some a vast network of intersecting chambers, others a simple altar in a grotto. Santa Maria de Idriis is said to be the oldest rock church and San Pietro Caveoso, which dates back to 1656, is one of the most spectacular.
Matera’s 13th century Puglian Romanesque cathedral with its rose window is dedicated to Santa Maria della Bruna, whose statue can be seen next to the main entrance. Although its style is mainly Baroque, recent restoration work has brought to light earlier works including a 14th century Byzantine fresco.
The 16th century Castello Tramontano is also worth a look. Commissioned by Giancarlo Tramontano, the castle is unfinished and was built on an earlier Roman site. Excavation work has revealed a vast underground reservoir with a vaulted ceiling and columns.